Words, words, words
28 10

An interview with Arno Ilgner author of Rock Warrior’s Way

Arno first inspired me to start thinking about mental training for climbing as something of value beyond how it could help my own climbing. Reading his book also planted a seed in my head that would take a few years to grow; this idea that mental training could be something I’d like to teach. During my injury I’ve had a lot of time to t...

08 10

Five months post op - leaving my ego on the ground

A week a go I went climbing at a crag called Afrique in Gietroz, Switzerland. It was amazing! I did 4 routes, a 6a, a 6b+, a 6c+ and a 7a. Each route felt like actual magic. Like I was Harry Potter. Every time I crossed through and placed my toe on a little foot hold I felt a little bit of joy. I was constantly surprised that my arms, those same ar...

13 09

Finally I climbed a real mountain

  Climbing   1 Comments

One of the first public talks I gave was at my Mum’s school. The talk I gave was predominantly about climbing El Cap, and afterwards I asked if anyone had any questions. One kid asked how high I’d been. I said that El Cap was 1000 meters. He then proceeded to tell me that that wasn’t even very high, and that he’d been higher because he’s ...

28 08

Talking with Mina Leslie-Wujastyk about fear of falling

  Climbing Coaching   2 Comments

I’ve noticed throughout my twenty years of climbing, that it’s mostly people’s heads that stop them from achieving what they want to in climbing, not their bodies. I’ve also noticed that a lot of people aren’t having as much fun as they could be at the crag because their minds get in the way. During the last few months...

24 08


This is a little piece of writing about my experience doing a ten day meditation course in Ladakh warning* I only used the word ‘climbing’ once The room was always very dim with soft light, soft floor and not-soft-enough cushions. I noticed I was holding my breath, trying to hear how loud my footsteps were. I took up my seat, wondering how be...

07 08

Off to Ladakh! A trip without climbing shoes!

As small people, my brother and I listened to a lot of tales from tall mountains. My Dad has been to the most mountainous area of the world too many times. Every year for thirty years he has guided a trek or peak. The Himalayas, the Karakoram, Ladakh, Tibet, Bhutan, Nepal; all these names had such a powerful mystery to us. Little wooden boxes, ston...

30 06

Two months post op

Yesterday I went running. It was marvellous. The tress were whispering louder, their leaves somehow greener. The birds sang uninterrupted and I bobbed along slowly, my jelly arms wobbling, with a massive grin on my face. I felt so happy. Like anything could have happened and I wouldn’t care. I felt like I’d got my body back. A shit one, that fe...

19 05

New website, new shoulder, new life

  Climbing Coaching   4 Comments

Some very nice things have happened recently. Last night I ate my dinner with my fork in my right hand which is what I’ve done since my Dad taught me to eat the wrong way round some twenty years ago. It was great. Then I had a shower and I shaved my leg with my right hand. That was also great. The best thing though was drinking a cup of tea t...

01 04


  Climbing Expression   1 Comments

I wrote this for ‘Evening Sends’ It’s been about six years since I sent Flight of the Challenger — a 5.12 (12b? 12c?) trad climb at Squamish. It says a lot that I don’t remember the things you’re supposed to remember—like the route’s grade. I vaguely recall an uninspiring pe...

01 01

The romance and the reality of life on the road

  Climbing Expression   1 Comments

I wrote this a few years a go for the Climber’s Club Journal, my life has changed a bit since then, but it’s still mostly spent on the road. I became a full time climber just over a year ago. In that year I have travelled by car to Spain and back twice, to France and back once, by plane to Newfoundland for a month, to America for 2 m...