Words, words, words
24 08


This is a little piece of writing about my experience doing a ten day meditation course in Ladakh warning* I only used the word ‘climbing’ once The room was always very dim with soft light, soft floor and not-soft-enough cushions. I noticed I was holding my breath, trying to hear how loud my footsteps were. I took up my seat, wondering how be...

07 08

Off to Ladakh! A trip without climbing shoes!

As small people, my brother and I listened to a lot of tales from tall mountains. My Dad has been to the most mountainous area of the world too many times. Every year for thirty years he has guided a trek or peak. The Himalayas, the Karakoram, Ladakh, Tibet, Bhutan, Nepal; all these names had such a powerful mystery to us. Little wooden boxes, ston...

30 06

Two months post op

Yesterday I went running. It was marvellous. The tress were whispering louder, their leaves somehow greener. The birds sang uninterrupted and I bobbed along slowly, my jelly arms wobbling, with a massive grin on my face. I felt so happy. Like anything could have happened and I wouldn’t care. I felt like I’d got my body back. A shit one, that fe...

19 05

New website, new shoulder, new life

  Climbing Coaching   3 Comments

Some very nice things have happened recently. Last night I ate my dinner with my fork in my right hand which is what I’ve done since my Dad taught me to eat the wrong way round some twenty years ago. It was great. Then I had a shower and I shaved my leg with my right hand. That was also great. The best thing though was drinking a cup of tea t...

01 04


  Climbing Expression   1 Comments

I wrote this for ‘Evening Sends’ It’s been about six years since I sent Flight of the Challenger — a 5.12 (12b? 12c?) trad climb at Squamish. It says a lot that I don’t remember the things you’re supposed to remember—like the route’s grade. I vaguely recall an uninspiring pe...

01 01

The romance and the reality of life on the road

  Climbing Expression   0 Comments

I wrote this a few years a go for the Climber’s Club Journal, my life has changed a bit since then, but it’s still mostly spent on the road. I became a full time climber just over a year ago. In that year I have travelled by car to Spain and back twice, to France and back once, by plane to Newfoundland for a month, to America for 2 m...